1 June 8, 2015. The Big Day
The Hyperion redwood tree. Tallest tree in the world. It was always “there”, and probably passed over by more than a few redwood researchers and explorers. But in August 2006 Michael Taylor and Chris Atkins put the rangefinders on the tree and found a height of 378 feet, making it the new tallest tree. And in 2016 it remains the world’s tallest tree, at 380 feet 4 inches.
So that’s great, but where is this tree? Well, in 2006, and for many years after that, no one would say. But the tree was featured in a best seller. And even today you can go to You Tube to play views from Hyperion’s canopy, and order a CD from National Geographic if you want even clearer canopy views. Those canopy views gave away the general area for Hyperion to a number of people, more so over time as Google Earth capabilities and clarity improved.
So armed with my “definitive” analysis, I was set to find Hyperion. This was a third attempt. The first time was very fun and interesting but wrong area. The second time was also fun and interesting but still wrong area. Gosh the remote areas of Redwood National Park are incredibly green and beautiful with many, many giant trees. But the areas were wrong for Hyperion. But this third time would be the charm, I hoped.
2 Off to Hyperion
Around 11 AM I arrived at the mouth of the suspected creek. This required a crossing of Redwood Creek which was knee deep with a pretty quick flow but really not that difficult on this day. This crossing is impossible in wetter months as Redwood Creek can be twenty feet deep.
The feeder creek, the one hopefully housing Hyperion, was very pleasant, with a lot of small frogs. The creek bed has some uniform shaped stones which are a little slippery to walk over, I suspect these may be left over from the beds of logging roads that were once in the area. Since I was alone I took care with every step, I did not want to slip and fall and hit my head on a rock, that would be really bad. Every now and then there were some nettles to move aside and deeper pools to avoid. I saw no human footprints.
There was a little under duck beneath a small log pile. It looked solid enough and kind of served as an official entrance to the area of the creek where the mature redwoods start. It was almost as if a sign could be put up there that says “This Way to Hyperion Grove”.
So all was well, I was making slow progress up the creek. But then, some motion to my left, followed by the loudest, most guttural bellow I had ever heard. And the source was close. A bear, and he or she was very pissed off at me! Well, I bellowed right back, HEY!!!!, and stomped around the creek. I never heard from the bear again, it must have then moved out of the area. Sounds unbelievable, but this is the honest to goodness truth.
Now armed with an extra dose of adrenaline I continued up the creek. There were some nice tall redwoods to the right up on the hillside. They didn’t exactly look like some of the Hyperion pictures, but who knows.
But I knew I needed to keep going. I had one more good clue, a picture of some guys climbing over a log pile. I was looking for that log pile. And then, forty careful minutes into the hike up the creek, there it was, the log pile. I was right! This was Hyperion’s creek!
3 Hyperion Grove
So up and over that log pile I went. Just like the guys in the photo. No problems. After that I was really amongst the old growth, with big mature trees on both sides of the creek. The sweet smell of bay laurel / pepper wood permeated the air and the big timber muffled all sounds. I knew Hyperion would be on the right side of the creek as moving upstream and right in this area. So where was it, which tree is it? There were a couple dozen to pick from.
Now I need to tell you Hyperion looks nothing like many of the pre 2015 photos on the internet. It is much closer to the creek, just above the end of the sword ferns. And it is very eroded on the downhill side, really pitifully eroded. That tree could fall anytime, at least that’s the way it looks to me. If it were growing that way along 101 I think Cal Trans would cut it down. And those pictures of the grove called “Hyperion from Below” – no, they are not from below, they are from across the creek’s valley.
So I walked right by Hyperion. Saw it, said nah, and walked right by it. Unbelievable, but true. I am sure others have done it. A short way further along I saw a couple trees on the right that were good suspects. And I saw another tree further ahead that looked like a candidate. But I was getting tired, the day was moving along, and I decided to go up through the ferns right there to the two trees.
After hiking to the two trees I realized they were not Hyperion and its neighbor. So I sat there for a while, feeling defeated. I did not realize I was sitting sixty feet west of Hyperion and its neighbor. The neighbor was blocking Hyperion and the distinguishing adjacent log. So after about twenty minutes of reflection I walked back down to the creek, looking right at Hyperion on the way down. I can still see it in my mind. I didn’t recognize it for what it was. How about that.
Here is my GPS trace of the hike in the Hyperion area, it is a little erratic versus my actual course but generally correct. H1 is Hyperion’s location. What a stunning effort and what a colossal albeit temporary setback.
Later last summer more information on Hyperion was leaked and I was able to go back later in the year and locate the tree no problem. While sitting behind Hyperion I looked over to the two redwoods I was sitting beside three months earlier and just shook my head.
Thanks for reading.